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Seeds of Change
baltimore eats - December, 2008
by John Shields
Grocery stores that are malls unto themselves, individually pre-wrapped baked potatoes, apples from New Zealand, fish from Central America and crabs from Southeast Asia. It seemed that we had food by the tail, so-to-speak. We had become, if not quite Masters of the Universe, at least masters of the Agricultural World. There was no limit to what we could have-and we had it whenever we wanted it.
Just lately though, we've started to get the sense that there's something wrong with this picture...
For one thing, it's becoming obvious that moving foodstuffs back and forth across the continents and the oceans takes a LOT of energy. There is a tremendous amount of sheer waste in our modern food production and marketing practices-like shipping American corn to South America to feed Argentinean cattle for the European and American markets; Scottish barley exported to France to be made into gourmet crackers that will be exported back to Britain.
There are numerous other wasteful and absurd steps along the way too. Processing and packaging and labeling... all requiring another journey, usually a long one, from one industrial food operation to another in the chain. Eventually these finished products will make their way to regional distribution centers and from there be hauled out by truck to their final destinations in our "Super Shopping" super markets. It does not take a mathematician to realize that there is ungodly amount of energy expended to bring that steak, that cracker, apple or star fruit to your table.
Fossil fuel energy has been viewed as a limitless resource. But recently we've been hit squarely in the face with the fact that this is not so. It is a finite source. Anyone with the good sense to accept that fact can see that the future does not bode well for these globalized, industrialized methods of food production and distribution.
That future is certainly made all the more dicey and threatened by the practice of Wal-Mart-style "just in time" delivery schemes that result in next to nothing being held in the way of an inventory at the local level. With a skittish global economy, "weird weather" events and now even pirates popping up all over, the extreme vulnerability of these systems is shown in pretty stark lighting all of a sudden. I've said it before, and I'll take this moment to say it once again-We need to re-build our local food economy!
Folks both near and far are beginning to agree, and for a number of very good reasons. There are simple health concerns. With so many recalls and scares people are demanding to know where their food comes from-who grew it and where. There are the issues of quality, freshness and taste. There is a growing collective belief that food grown locally just tastes better, and maybe even a gathering faith that Mother Nature just might know best-that eating what's currently in season in your own region will provide you with exactly the nutrients you need at that time of the year.
This is a beautiful thing!
Small farmers are once again our heroes in the local food scene. We have organic growers, local orchards, food artisans crafting local cheeses and sausages. We have makers of soaps and herbal health concoctions. The local dairy business is booming, recalling advertising jingles I knew in my youth - "If you don't own a cow, call Cloverland now." Nearby dairies make the full gamut of products-milk (in bottles!), cheese, yogurt and sweet, fresh creamery butter.
Vegetable stalls and CSA's provide a cornucopia of local, seasonal produce that is awe-inspiring. Young people who may have studied for their MBA's or biotechnology degrees have turned course, deciding to devote their energies to creating local urban farms. They're tending the neglected soil with a passion, turning blighted lots into beautiful parcels of bountiful gardens, food for themselves and for their neighbors.
Many seniors are coming out of their retirement high-rises, imparting the remembered wisdoms and growing traditions inherited from their parents and grandparents. There's an excitement afoot, a joy, and a generous sharing of tools, skills and knowledge.
All of a sudden organizations abound supporting, promoting, and encouraging people to live, grow and buy local.
Dedicated people are coming together with local government agencies -sometimes kicking these institutions, mired in the status quo, in the pants- to begin the planning and implementation of coordinated distribution concepts.
Churches and other spiritual centers are digging up their decorative lawns and turning them into garden plots. Schools now offer programs that coax young students into getting their hands dirty by tilling, planting tiny seeds, tending and finally, miraculously, harvesting the vegetables grown from those tiny seeds. Youngsters are being shown the marvels of the power of Life, and the responsibilities of stewardship, when tiny seeds, can, with care, become the food on their table.
These efforts are all part of this new -actually old- form of local growing and seasonal eating that will rebuild our local food economy. These are our hope and our future. They are the Seeds of Change.
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