Spring Tonics

Edible Chesapeake Spring 2006
by John Shields

Medicine today may have become what many like to believe it is - an exact science. But let's face it - we're only one or two generations removed from a predominate folk medicine culture - and who's to know what school of thought may have the most merit. The native Chesapeake peoples had traditional food-based medicines that kept them strong for thousands of years. The migrating ethnic groups that later settled these shores brought traditions with them from their homelands - a number of which merged and mingled with Native American traditions. In my own home, my mother (a.k.a. Mom Mom), Grandma Gertie, and Aunt Minnie were always conjuring up new improved spring tonics each year as the crocuses began to push their way out of the still cold earth.

Why a spring tonic, you may ask? Winters in the days before central heating, antibiotics, heated forms of transportation, heated shopping districts, and satellite weather forecasting were a perilous time. I don't know about you, but we lost a lot of relatives. If you were fortunate enough to survive the bitter cold, the prevailing school of thought was the blood in your body needed cleansing. With most people cooped up indoors from December to April it was believed toxins accumulated in the blood. And then come spring, the blood needed an exorcism, of sorts. That's where the tonic comes into play. These tonics are meant to restore one's blood quality back to optimal health and vitality. In my neighborhood the big spring tonic ingredients traditionally were watercress, asparagus, and rhubarb.

As the winter snow pack begins to melt, the streams and creeks around the Bay run full with clear cold water, and along their banks can be found patches of wild watercress. You'll need some sturdy, tall waterproof rubber boots for gathering the cress, and the picking process can be time consuming putting a tad of stress on the lower back - but the reward is great. This wonderful plant - actually a member of the mustard family - has a clean, crisp, slightly bitter flavor and transforms itself into magnificent salads, soups, or all alone as a quick saute with garlic and olive oil. The leaves and stems are chock full of vitamins. Actually from a scientific standpoint watercress contains iron, folic acid, and vitamin B6, which when combined help promote healthy red blood.

Many folks around the Chesapeake region can almost set their internal spring clock around the arrival of the first asparagus of the season. The sandy soil of the eastern shore is optimal for growing tender spears of asparagus, which is - by the way - a member of the lily family. Native Americans dried the spears of asparagus and turned it into a medicinal tonic. According to folk legend the green tipped vegetable is not only loaded with cleansing vitamins and minerals, it is reputed to be an aphrodisiac as well. No wonder there's just nothing like fresh asparagus! Many of us were turned off by the canned variety during our youth - and with good reason. There's just no comparison. Generally simple is best. I like my asparagus lightly blanched - either steamed - or in hot water, drained, and then seasoned with a touch of butter and lemon - or a little good quality extra virgin olive oil in place of the butter.

Another local favorite for spring rejuvenation is rhubarb. The stalks of this vegetable - yes, vegetable not a fruit - look similar to celery, but are actually a member of the buckwheat family. This is another spring tonic found to be high in vitamin C and loaded with fiber. It is reputed to cleanse the blood, but according to my great grandmother, Emma, it can also kill you. Now that may sound a bit hysterical but there is scientific evidence that the leaves of the rhubarb are quite toxic if consumed in enough quantity. The Chinese use the root of the rhubarb as medicine, however here in the United States, the stalk is the most used part of the plant, primarily for cooking. Rhubarb pairs well with fruit, most famously strawberries. It also makes a wonderfully pungent preserve, or relish.

Now with the information provided through science, a bit of channeling with several dearly departed family members, and some of my favorite spring tonic recipes, you can cook and eat your way to a healthy spring and summer season Ü enjoy! If you have any of your own family spring tonic takes to tell - and perhaps a few recipes or potions to share - I'd love to hear from you.

Watercress and Potato Soup

Serves 6 to 8
3 large bunches watercress (about 1 1/2 pound), large stems removed and discarded
4 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons minced shallots
3 cloves garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 pounds potatoes, Yukon Gold or boiling variety, peeled and medium diced
10 cups vegetable or chicken stock
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Coarsely chop the watercress and set aside.

In a heavy bottomed soup pot, heat the olive oil and saute the shallots and garlic for several minutes, stirring frequently. Do not allow the garlic to brown. Add the watercress and saute for an additional 2 minutes.

Add the potatoes and stock and bring to a boil. When the soup begins to boil reduce the heat and allow soup to cook until the potatoes are just cooked through, about 15 to 20 minutes. Add salt and pepper and season to taste.

Serve immediately in soup bowls. Garnish with a dollop of sour cream if desired. I enjoy warm crusty bread with this simple, hearty soup.

Citrus Marinated Asparagus

Serves 4 to 6 2 pounds medium asparagus, tough ends removed
Grated peel of 1 orange
1/2 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
3 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Drop asparagus into the water and allow to cook for 4 to 5 minutes, depending on the thickness of the spears. Remove the asparagus with a slotted utensil or tongs and place in an ice bath of cold water. Allow to cool for a few minutes, then drain and pat dry with paper towels.

In a small mixing bowl whisk together the grated orange peel, orange juice, and balsamic vinegar. Slowly whisk in the olive oil in a thin stream. Season with the salt and pepper.

In a large mixing bowl toss the asparagus and mint with the vinaigrette. This can be done up to an hour before serving. Place the marinated asparagus on a platter and serve either as a first course or side dish.

Rhubarb and Strawberry Pie

Serves 4 to 6 Serves 8 Pastry dough for a single-crust 9 inch pie
2 pints strawberries, stemmed
2 cups diced rhubarb (see note)
1 cup sugar
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 cup water
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon salt
Sweetened whipped cream, for topping

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.

Prepare the pastry dough and roll it out to line a 9-inch pie pan. Flute the edges of the shell. Gently prick the bottom of the shell with a fork. Press aluminum foil into the bottom and sides of the shell and cover foil with raw rice or dried beans to weight the pastry and prevent the crust from swelling during baking.

Bake for 8 minutes. Remove the weighted foil and continue to bake for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the crust is lightly browned. Coo before filling the pie.

Place half the strawberries in a heavy bottomed pot. Mash with a fork or potato masher. Add the rhubarb and 1 cup sugar. Combine the cornstarch, water, lemon juice, and salt in a small bowl and stir to dissolve the cornstarch. Add to the strawberry-rhubarb mixture. Cook over medium heat until the mixture is thick and the rhubarb is tender, stirring often.

Halve the remaining strawberries and arrange them in the baked pie shell. Pour the strawberry-rhubarb mixture over the berries, cover, and chill.

Serve topped with lightly whipped sweetened cream.

Note: To peel rhubarb, use a paring knife and cut almost all the way through, toward the rounded smooth side. Pull the skin down the sides of the stalks and the fibrous strings will come right off.

Back to Articles